Lanzarote: Just don’t dare call it grotty...

Review date: June, 2009

Spain has led the way on renewable energy for years, building a landscape of wind turbines and solar panels far and wide. However, after an initial upsurge in energy lawyers across the Spanish islands, a mix of the current economic climate, corruption and a crash in real estate has led lawyers to believe that Spain’s eco status is draining away. 

A couple who would question that prediction are Tila and Michelle Bradbock. They may not be lawyers, but they know a lot about eco-tourism and have built, and are living themselves, in the concept of an eco friendly experience.  At the coastal village of Arrieta in Lanzarote, tourists can enjoy an eco-friendly break at the Finca de Arrieta.  Powered almost completely by wind and solar energy it’s the first totally green accommodation on the island.  The Finca is located on 30,000 square metres of former farmland and even has room for chickens and a donkey named Molly.  You see what I did there?  I sneaked in a reference to Lanzarote and allowed no time for jokes about it being Lanza-grotty. This unfair epithet was coined many years ago by travel writer and Monty Python actor Michael Palin and was then repeated by Judith Chalmers and many other travel correspondents around the globe. 
 
We came across our little treasure on the website Holiday-Rentals.co.uk, which has over 520 rentals in Lanzarote and more than 180,000 worldwide.

 The Finca really stood out with its eco credentials and it was obvious after our first contact with the owners ,Michelle and Tila that this was going to be no ordinary holiday. British born they’ve lived on the island for over 17 years and their little eco village, as they like to call it, based in Arrieta, comprises of an eco villa, a fisherman’s cottage, an eco garden cottage and four yurts.

There were four of us so after a lot of discussion about the excitement of glamping (glamorous camping) in one of the yurts we settle on the villa, which can sleep 8. In green terms the Eco Luxury Villa has impeccable credentials and is efficiently powered by 30 solar panels and 2 wind turbines, a fantastic example of renewable energy using the largest and most up to date system in Lanzarote.

 Mel ( in hat) welcomed the respite from writing press releases

After a few emails with Michelle we’re set up with wind surfing lessons, salsa lesson and appointments with Angie, the locals’ complimentary health specialist who gets booked up weeks in advance. 

It’s obvious as we arrive that Lanzarote has smartened its act up – somewhat like when Jordan reinvented herself as Katie Price.  A huge vote of thanks must go to the efforts of the local born artist Cesar Manrique, who really put the island on the map with his incredible creations, such as the Jameos del Agua and the Jardin de Cactus.  These works attracted a whole raft of VIP visitors in the early 1970´s, including actors such as Peter Sellers and Omar Sharif.  Even the King of Spain maintains and uses a residence on the island at Las Maretas in Costa Teguise. And now the latest visitors, the hardest to please maybe, me and 3 girlfriends looking for the ultimate relaxing experience away from the stress of London life.

The first morning we realise that not only will we be experiencing eco living first hand but we can also live off the land with fresh produce of eggs, potatoes, tomatoes and onions. After we cook a lavish breakfast of Spanish omelette and enjoy our first morning in our spacious villa, with its wooden floors and exposed stone walls, we breathe in the Morocco and Indonesian influences and head to the pool.

The complex is extremely unique – not just in the way it looks – you’d be forgiven for driving straight past and missing it as it’s set so well into the landscape - but also those two names, Tila and Michelle, who are by far gaining themselves the reputation of best hosts ever as they organise our meal on the first night and work out what time we want our windsurfing lessons – which are being given by Tila and his son.

The Finca has beautiful mature gardens with fruit trees & bushes, such as mango, banana, guava & lime. A shared pool area includes a 10 metre lap pool, jet pool, sun loungers, gas BBQ, kitchen, dining and chill out entertaining- suite.  Lanzarote is an ideal destination for anyone who enjoys sightseeing as well as sunbathing and on our first afternoon we take a drive around the island.  Measuring just 60km by 40km the island is easy to navigate and boasts loads of natural beauty spots, as well as Manrique´s man made attractions.  We make time to stop in at his favourite work of art – his house – which is an awe inspiring party palace.

Lanzarote is also soon set to star again in the latest movie release from Pedro Almodovar. His film Broken Embraces, starring Penelope Cruz, was shot on location across the island.  It will be screened in cinemas across the UK from August.  Word has it that island authorities are hoping it will have a similar impact on tourist numbers as Mamma Mia had for the island of Skopelos!

Our retreat is located just a few minutes walk from the seaside village of Arrieta and the unspoilt beach of Playa La Garita. Arrieta is a traditional Lanzarotien fishing village, a hidden jewel on the island, mainly un-discovered by tourists.

It boasts wonderful sea front restaurants, quaint historic buildings and a great beach for families, with a beach bar, play park and body boarding and surfing facilities.  As we are pushing ourselves off our sun loungers into windsurfing lessons the next day we decide to have a drink by the beach and soak in the sunshine and sea breeze. We’ve been here just a day and already we’re discussing how to fit in all the activities on offer.

There are some great tracks from the house for mountain biking, cycling and walking. Tila and Michelle are very willing to organise excursions, although we decide to explore the fantastic costal and mountain tracks independently. If you’re a nature lover this is a great location to see the island’s wildlife. There is a fantastic array of bird species on the island, including, herons, egrets, osprey, vultures, falcons, kestrels, swifts, hoopoes, bee-eaters...and I bet if you ask, Tila and Michelle will have a spare pair of binoculars for you....!

On our day of wind surfing we’re all filled with trepidation.  Stories about people who have been caught out by rip tides and pulled into the horizon never to be seen again are bouncing across the car like an excitable puppy.  However we needn’t have worried, as we’re put at ease when we pull up to La Santa, a beautiful lagoon on the south side of the island and a raft of gorgeous Australian and Canadian surf dudes bounce up to us with offers of help should we need it. One thing is certain, whether or not we need it, we’re asking for it.  As I attempt to manoeuvre my sail in a show off “hey look at me picking up this windsurfing so easily” I consider a wobble, but needn’t have bothered because as I’m distracted by the six packs helping my sister (who’s gone for the “I need lots of help” option) I crash into the under -water wall of the man made lagoon and fall off ungracefully head first. 

One of the six packs heads over to help and I quickly check my bikini for displacement. As I watch my sister and friends doing a repeat of the head first fall soon after I don’t feel so bad. Tila picks up on our enjoyment of the wind surfing and tries to convince us to come back and stay for a month in August to become champions of the sea and sail. Never say never I’ve learnt very quickly as I slip into the laid back island life of Lazarote.

That night as we arrive home we’re given the option of salsa classes after a barbecue.  We jump at the chance and turn up to the beautiful outdoor area by the pool to find Spanish music blasting from the ipod and several Columbians who live in the nearby village ready to make us salsa experts. A few of the ex pat locals have joined us and as the shots of sambuka slip down and the Spanish wine flows the rhythm of the  evening really gets in full swing.

The next day as I lay in the beautifully tranquil room of Angie’s relaxation suite and she uses her expert reflexology skills to calm me, the memories of the flaming sambuka and the gallons of red wine consumed the night before begin to fade. I’m a natural stress junky and relaxing is an alien concept but again Lanzarote was working its magic by calming my adrenal gland, through my feet and slowly through my heart.

I’m sure Michael Palin never imagined the full force of the volcanic eruption that would hit Lanzarote after his comments about it being grotty... but with eco tourism as the new weapon to its armoury and those wind turbines spreading faster than Kate Moss’s new Topshop range....it looks like Lanzarote is finally back on the map.  According to the island’s tourist board around 40% of tourists come back to Lanzarote for at least a second holiday.  A relatively high return rate and testament to the fact that the island can inspire a high level of loyalty....has everyone stayed with this warm and welcoming couple I wonder? I’ll certainly be putting Michelle and Tila forward for an award for proving green living can be luxurious, and fun.

I’ve changed my mind....Lanzarote is more Take That than Katie Price ...and this time...we’ve had a lot of patience...and I really hope it’s back for good.

Melissa Davis, Head of PR, The Law Society

Factbox:

Melissa stayed in the eco villa in May which cost from 995 Euros/Approximately 840 Pounds  per week
For more information go to www.holidayrentals.co.uk/p85803

The Garden cottage costs from 395 Euros/Approximately 330 Pounds per week
The yurts cost from 575 Euros/Approximately 485 Pounds  per week.

Angie Appleton – complimentary therapist – can be contacted - and appointments made before you go out at -  http://www.holistictherapies.es/

This Twin luxury Eco Yurt sleeps up to 6 guests It is 2 yurts next to each other creating a great space for people with children or 4 adults. This twin yurt has fantastic sea views, its own terrace area and comes with walk-in shower room and outdoor kitchen. This Yurt has been imported from Mongolia where they live in this form of 'house' throughout the year, it is fitted with Marble flooring, luxury fabrics and furnishing and set on the estate of 'Finca de Arrieta'.

The eco Garden Cottage sleeps up to 4 and  is 40 square.  It’s set in the gardens on the estate and has been sympathetically restored. Its spacious living area can comfortable accommodate up to 4 guests + cot. The contemporary design includes split level floor, open plan living room, kitchen area and bedroom. The cottage has been tastefully styled to create a cosy cottage feel using wood & local stone flooring. There is a extra large king size double bed in the bedroom area and two double sofa beds for extra guests if needed in the lounge area. The  shower room has a walk in stone shower and free standing marble sink. It has a fully fitted kitchen and lounge area with views over to the sea, surrounding fields and mountains. The cottage has a walled private terrace with uninterrupted sea views, perfect for relaxing and catching some sunshine on the teak wood loungers, you are also able to enjoy a BBQ and enjoy some al fresco dining on your private terrace.

Other things to do during your stay in Lanzarote:

Windsurfing - this is available from two of the nearest points to the property either on Arrieta Beach just in front of the house or at Jameos Del Agua. Costa Teguise being just 15 mins away has numerous places where you can hire equipment and have a great sail.

Sea Kayak - This is also available in Costa Teguise.

Diving - There are numerous places for diving on the island the nearest to the property is at Arrieta Village.

Kite Surfing - is increasing growing in Lanzarote and Famara beach is the main place to sail here.

Surfing – the best waves are either off East Coast Arrieta beach or Punta Mujeres or West Coast at Famara. You can have lessons and hire equipment at Famara.

Sailing - for a day out sailing the prestigious Puerto Calero offers either private yacht or speed boat charters or a day out on a 80ft Catarmaran.

Fishing - You can always go fishing either from the pier at Arrieta or go out on a boat from Puerto Calero

Golf - the 18 hole golf course is in Costa Teguise set at the foot of an old volcano, surrounded by 3000 palms, cactus and beautiful views to the sea. Group or individual classes are available from one of the two golf professionals.

Melissa Davis, Head of PR, The Law Society