Grado Makes the Grade
Rob Ainscough, PR Manager at Pannone LLP reviews celebrity chef Paul Heathcote's new Manchester- based Restaurant, Grado, for Law and More....
Grado Restaurant
www.heathcotes.co.uk
New York Street
Piccaddily
Manchester
M1 4BD
0161 2389790 Review
Visit: Thursday 5th June 2008
The last time I went out for dinner with my Business Development colleague she leapt up barely half way through her meal to run to the loo and be sick. It was, she assured me, the squid and not my company, but I’ve always wondered.
It was then with a certain amount of trepidation that I invited her to Grado, a relatively new Spanish influenced eaterie opened in Manchester by Paul Heathcote, a chef with a burgeoning reputation, who now owns some fifteen restaurants across the North West. Were my fears realised by inviting the BD person? More of that later, but what of Grado?
First impressions were good: Pleasant welcome but not overly schmoozey and they had our reservation. Pre-dinner drinks at the bar proved pleasing and amusing, as the BD discussed the various names attributed to a white wine kir with the bartender, who proved (politely) that he knew more than her.
A look around the place, which apparently cost a million pounds to kit out, showed it to be furnished, as the late lamented Kenny Everett would say, “In the best possible taste”. One could indeed have been in the latest chic bar/restaurant in Barcelona, Bilbao or Madrid. There’s even a nod to the traditional, with a leg of cured jamon resplendent on the bar for slivers to be sliced off and served tapas style with a cooling glass of cerveza or a copa or two of vino. Indeed the bar area was so relaxing it was tempting to eschew the restaurant and feast on tapas and copious copas all night.
Our table though was ready and we somewhat reluctantly left the jamon and took our seats in the somewhat sparsely populated restaurant. We needn’t have worried. Bread and olives were served whilst we perused the menu which is apparently the result of extensive visits to Spain, in particular the Basque city of San Sebastian, where food is probably more important than just about anything else on the planet. I happen to know this because my wife had the good sense to take me to San Sebastian and I can vouch for the excellent quality of its cuisine and the potency of its cider!
San Sebastian in Manchester
So has San Sebastian come to Manchester? Well in a word: Yes. Heathcote has managed to inject the best of his Spanish influences into Manchesters culinary scene without making the experience some kind of fake Viva Espana theme night. What’s more he’s done it in a part of Manchester that sorely needs an infusion of style.
Talking of cod Spanish, the food mis amigos is muy bien. After being provided immediately with a bowl of olives, bread and oil, the BD began with sardines on toast, which proved a tasty starter that came with sheep’s milk cheese, tomato and herbs. For my part I opted for the salad of artichokes and peppers with a herb dressing from the pleasingly moderately priced ‘fixed price menu’ (£15.50 for three courses). This too was a definite hit, with the BD raiding my plate for a fork full or two (fairs fair, I did purloin a sardine).
After an excellent beginning, mains could have been a let down – They weren’t. The BD’s duck with figs and honey came with roast chicory and aged Jerez (that’s sherry to you and me) vinegar. It was pronounced “spot-on” by the lady, who then made sure I got nowhere near a sample due to complete selfishness on her part. I opted for the salmon a la plancha, served on a bed of fennel puree; with char grilled asparagus and a sweet wine based syrup. If you think that sounds strange with salmon, believe me it works.
Desserts consisted of the BD’d warm chocolate pudding with hazelnuts, which came accompanied by a superb vanilla ice cream, whilst I went for orange slices in olive oil with orange sorbet. Both dear reader passed the sweet tooth test with flying colours.
What did we drink with this exquisite Spanish food fest? Okay we pushed the boat out on the vino and opted, at the management's recommendation, for the Ribera Del Duero, Bodegas Vega Real Reserva at £44. Worth it? Oh yes, an equivalent Rioja would have cost twice as much, so go for this region now. We also went for a glass of dessert wine each. The BD’s an Antique Pedro Ximinez and mine a Casa de la Ermita Dulce Viognier, Jumilla. The former I’m told was superb with the chocolate pud. Mine I’m afraid I cannot report on, as the BD skilfully flicked out a trailing finger to send it all over my Adolfo Dominguez suit trousers! I can though testify it smelt heavenly and felt sticky.
Overall then an impressive dining experience at a cost of just over the £100 mark (plus dry cleaning bill), but that did include the £44 Ribera Del Duero . Any quibbles? Minor ones – The complimentary bread and olives were a nice touch but the bread was average, even a tad tough rather than crusty. And for the sake of what would surely be a few pence only, the fennel puree helping could have been a little more generous.
Footnote: The first time I went out with BD for dinner she was ill. This time she tipped a glass of dessert wine over me. Come on, it must be personal!
Reviewer: Rob Ainscough
